Shoe and insole therefor



April 2,1940. I WARREN 2,195,476

SHOE AND INSOLE THEREFOR Filed Nov. 5, 1937 1 meme-a Apr. 2; i940 'H p Unite'd 'Shoe Machinery Corporation, Borough of Fleming-ton, 'N, 3 1, a corporation of- New v Jersey Applicatioiiflflovcmber '5, 1937, Serial No 1724009 This inventionrelates to improvementsin shoes and insoles therefor.

In a welt shoe the sewing ill) of the insole tends 1 I n welt strip used'in the making of theshoe;

to, stiffen the insoleso aslto render the shoe-bot.-

ic tom incapable of flexing as freelyas is required to accommodate the bending-movements of .the

105- bottoms ofweltj shoes. n I v With*this' obiectv in view the invention in one aspectconsi'sts'in a Welt-shoe. comprising an in- Sole and. having an upstt'mding integral sewing rib, interrupted. at the ball of the" shoe by openings extending substantial. distances lengthwise q of said'rib and having a layer of reinforcing ma -terial coveringthe surface ,of the insole-within 'said ib; said layer having. afmarginal portion, overlying the inner side fojf said. rib'and bridging said. "o iieni ngs, an upper and a welt secured to; said rib by' means'of aninseam, and an outsole secured to. said welt', sa'iclfinsearn extending through said. marginal portion of the reinforcing.

layer where "it-overlies said rib .andalso through 2 said marginal p ortion where said rib-"openings are located.

"other portion of which bridges said gap;

' The invention willbe explainedwithreference to the accompanying drawing, in which Fig '1 j p'erspective viev'vbfanj insole 'prepared'inaccordance with the present invention; Fig. 2 is airagmentary perspective view 'ofthe I insole illustrating the performance. of certain,

' rib alongtherbase:or'rootof the latter'and" inter meeting the incisions-28 so asto remove the rib preparatory operations thereon; I

, Fig. 3- is ajfragmentary cross-sectional view of ma shoe inprocess of construction, showing an upper secured in overlasted.position uponan insole such. as-that s own in, Fig. 1;

Fig. i-isja perspectiveview' of the ,shoe. as. it c- I appears after .the inseam'ingand inseam. trim-l I insoleeedgecontour'andiswcemented to. the ribbed rming operations havebeenperi'ormed'; Y

Itis one (if the mesa hi t e basa t mag; tion. to insure aghigher degree of flexibility inthe Fig. is a fragmentary crosses'ectional view of the shoe taken'along the line V--'V; of Figr 4;

.Fig. 61 is a: fragmentary perspective view of a Fig. Tis a fragmentaryv crosses'ection'al View of 5 the-shoe taken along the line VII 1V IIof Fig. 4; Fig; 8 a cross-sectional view of'the'finished shoe;

- Fig. '9 is a fragmentary cross-sectional view of a: sho'eincourse of construction illustrating an 10 alternati've method of securing the welt. to the upper in theball portion of; the shoe;- and Fig; lil -is a cross-sectional viewiof" the shoe shown. Fig. 9; illustrating aiurther step in the process of-making the shoe. v in making my improved shoe; an insole i6 is channeled ina'well-known manner: to provide inner and onter marginal channels the lips or "flaps l8 and- 0f whichare raised and cemented togetherto form an upstanding two-ply lasting and,j-sevvi'ngl rib- 22, the rib as *initially' formed extending continuouslyv around the fore'part and I along both lateral margins o f t'he shank portion 'ofgthe insole. (In order that theshoe in which 1 the insol'e is to be incorporated shallf be better adapted to accommodate the bendingm ovements 0f: the foot, portions of the rib- 22: are removed in wtherforepart Jof the insole so as torender' the 'latterlcapable. of bendin'gor flexing more freely.

As shown in Fig. 1, a section of substantial length and of" iulliib thickness has been removed from the insole'rib 22' at each side ofthe 'forepart in the ball portion of the insole thusproviding openings orgaps 24 in-the ribj and' enabling the insole to bend more easily in the-vicinity of the 5! ball line. 'The'length'and-locations o f the openings 2.4 in the rib mayghowever; be varied to vary-"the extentof thefarea of increased flexibility'and to control the l'oca'tioii of the break The openings 24' may knife being-manipulated: at each. lateral" margin or theinsoleltojmak'e. spacedincisions 28 in the 4 rib,flperpendicular to=theface of the insole, and

also to make a out extending ,lengthWiseof the entirely and. leave 'noxupstanding elements in the ball portion of the insole. After the openings 24- have been formed inlthe rib the insole is reinforced by. means ofa layer 3 4;*oi"c'anva.

or the like which is cut to correspond to the side of the insole, the marginal portions of the reinforcing layer being cemented to the inner Side of the upturned rib. In the localities where the openings 24 are formed slits 36 are cut in the marginal portions of the layer 34, the slits being spaced apart so as to form lasting tabs 38 be tween themand these tabs are cemented to the feather of the'insolewso as to'provide surfaces thereon of a character'suitable for the reception of pyroxylin cement. A reinforced insole is thus provided which, in addition to having all the" advantages of the well-known Economy insole has a maximum amount of flexibility in the ball portion of its 'forepart (inasmuch as the stiffen- 'ing effect of the sewing rib has beeneliminated in that locality) and which is also especially adapted, at the margins of its ball portion for the reception ofv cement by means of which the upper of a shoe may be permanently: held, in,

overlasted position,

In usingythe above-described insole in the manufacture of a shoe the insole isassembled with an upper 48 and'an upper lining 42 upon a last 44. The upper materials are pulled over and lasted in the usual way and are secured in overlasted position upon the feather .45 of the insole. As herein shown, the overlasted margin of the upper is thus secured in position where.

the sewing rib is left intact by means of staples 46 (Fig. ,3) which are, driven through the rib 4 while in the localities where the rib has'been cut away the upper is secured to the insole by-means of pyroxylin orother suitable cement, the lining 42 being cemented to the canvas reinforcing layer 34 andthe upper being secured by cement to;

the overlasted portion of, the lining, a'sindicated at 48 in Fig. 4.

the welt thereto, as will be explained later.

Thereafter, the overlasted margins of the :upperI:

materials, together with a welt 52, are secured to the rib 22 by inseam stitches 54. The inseam stitching operation may proceed continuously 3 around the shoe bottom, the stitches, however,

passing only, through the welt, as indicated in Figs 5, in the localities where the rib has been cut away and where the upper materials are to be secured by cement to the surface of the insole, ;The usual inseam trimming operation may now be performed and suitable filling material applied to" the portion of the shoe bottom at the inner side of the sewing rib. Thereafter,

an outsole 58 is laid and attached as by outseam' .1 stitches '60 ,(Fig 8 to the ,Welt 52 although the outsole maybe attached to the'shoe by means of cement if desired. In the areas where the rib, 22 has been cut away and where'the inseam stitches do not pass through the upper, the up per and the ,welt may now be secured together by meansof pyroxylin or other suitable cements Advantageously, the cement may beapplied just prior to the leveling of the shoebottom so that the leveling pressure will cause the cemented parts to become firmly bonded together. To 'assist in securing a satisfactory cement bond be-' tween the welt andthe upper in these localities it is desirable to employ a welt theinner' marginal portions of which have been pre-ronghed at the -,side which is to .beattached to the upper, as -in-" dicated at B2 in Fig. 6. The cement may be in troduced between the welt and the upper from-J the-outside'of the shoe after the outsole has been attached although, if desired, it"may be intro-; duced before the outsole-is laid and before' the- The overlasted portions 48 of i the upper are-thenroughed, as indicated at 50,} to prepare them for the cement attachment of bottom filler is applied inwln'ich case the ce-' mented parts may be held under pressure against the bottom of the last during the setting of the cement by theme of any suitable pressure applying means. V v

In attachingithewelt to the upper atthe ball the "ins'arnjgstitlies st jjmaynbe"pas j d through the welt and'the uppernlati'ials' and through the margin of the reinforcing layer 34, as shown in Fig; 9,.the margin of the layer 34 being upturned,

yas, indicated-where the openings in therib are located. In accordance with this procedure the pper and liningneed not be secured to the insole with cement during the lasting operation,

in the localities where the rib is cut away, inasshown in 'Fig. 10, in "which case. the inseam.

stitches Figiwill extend'only'throughjthewelt and the'upper materialsfi Infeither case, after the inseam stitchingoperation hasbeen completed the upper margin which extends inwardly beyond.

the inseam may belaid fiat againstjthefinsole and secured thereto'byfcementf as indicated at litinFiglOx In a 'welt shoe madefas above" described there is no sewingrib withporti'onsof thewelt and the upper tightly secured ;thereto by inseam; stitches at the b-all'portion' of the shoe bottom to stifien the 'insoleand thus to' interfere with thefiieir'ing of the ShOC 'bOttQIII. The upper ma-. terials in this locality, are oyerlasted' flat upon. thainsole as in a McKay-sewed shoe. but "there is no through-and through stitching securing to gether the upper andthe inner and outer'soles."

Consequently the shoe, although having the wa known advantages of a 'welt shoe, is moreflexible than either a shoe of the' usualiwelt construction or' a McKay-"sewedshoe." Moreover, the construction of the shoein the balljp ortipn where themaximumamount of ,bending takesplace is "such .jthat no structural weakness is developed as aresult' or" the removalof the sewingribinthe bail portion of theshoesin'ce in that region the upper is very firmly attached byfcementto the reinforcing layer' of the'insole and the welt is firmly secured to 'the upper either by cement or by the inseam stitches. f

Having described my invention, what I -claim i as new and desire to secu e byYLetters Patent of the United States is:

, ll welt shoe comprising an insolev having an upstanding integral ,sewin'g rib interrupted at' the ball of, theshoe by openings extending substantial distances lengthwise of said, rib and having a layer of Ireinforcingmaterial covering th'e'surface (of the insole within said .rib, said layer having a marginal portion overlyingv the inner side'of said rib and bridging said openings,v

; an upper and a welt secured tosaid rib by means of an inseam, and an outsole' secured to said welt, said inseam extending through said marginal portion ofthereinforcing layer where it overlies of fabric secured to the ribbed side of said ,insole I said rib and also where said rib openings are -located.

said welt.

v 2. A welt shoe comprising an insole having an upturned integral sewing rib interrupted at the ball of the shoe by an opening extending a substantial distancelengthwise of said rib, a piece and-having an' upturned portion opposite said rib opening, an upper anda welt secured by means of an inseam to said rib, said inseam securing said upper and said welt to the upturned portions of said piece. of fabric where said rib opening is located, and an outsole secured to 1 3. An insole having an portionextending along one lateral margin of its shank part and another upstanding integral rib portion extending along the corresponding lateral margin of its forepart, said rib portions being separated at the ball of the insole by a gap of substantial extent'lengthwise of the rib portions, and a layer of. reinforcing fabric secured to that portion of the insole surface which is located at the inner sides of said rib portions,

1 said layer having an upstanding margin, portionsof which are secured to said rib portions and another portion of which bridges said gap.

t HAROLD WARREN.

upstanding integral rib 

